Drink Pink by Victoria James

Author:Victoria James
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: HarperCollins
Published: 2017-03-20T04:00:00+00:00

GERMANY: Stein (Mosel), Messmer (Pfalz), Rebholz (Pfalz), von Buhl (Pfalz), Leitz (Rheingau), and Schlossgut Diel (Nahe)

SWITZERLAND: Domaine de Montmollin Oeil de Perdrix (Neuchâtel) and Château d’Auvernier Oeil de Perdrix (Neuchâtel)

NEW WORLD ROSÉ

Outside of Europe, winemakers are embracing rosé and playing with their own styles. The United States is one such place. The American palate is starting to evolve. Winemakers have a growing appreciation for rosé and are further exploring the style. Rosé has sparked a wave of excitement and experimentation. In California, winemakers like Rajat Parr are playing with fractional blending. Three different vintages of rosé (2012, 2013, and 2014) are aged in the solera method, something more commonly found in sherry production. In this method, a bit of each vintage is blended and aged together. It will be released as a sparkling wine in 2017.

In Oregon, J. K. Carriere is making Pinot Noir rosé with Chardonnay lees, the expended yeast cells. Usually, these settle to the bottom of the tank and can be discarded. By adding it to another wine, they are adding a clever twist to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay usage, two of the traditional grapes incorporated into champagne made in France. Eventually the wine is separated and bottled, but not before picking up some flavor and a silky texture from the Chardonnay lees.

In New York, Macari Vineyards on the North Fork of Long Island makes a delicious rosé that sells out every vintage. Nearby, Paumanok also makes a highly quaffable example from Bordeaux varieties. Since there are no traditional grapes associated with a region, wineries are playing around and seeing what works best. In Santa Ynez Valley in California, Lieu Dit is committed to only Loire Valley varieties, for example. Their rosé is made from Pinot Noir and is reminiscent of Sancerre rosés but with its own California stamp.

In Sonoma, Soliste winery also makes a Pinot Noir rosé. The market is still tricky for pink wines, though. The owner of the winery, Claude Koeberle, has told me that he makes rosé because he likes it, not because he wants to make a profit. He cannot command as high of a price point for it as he can his red wine made from Pinot Noir. “Every time we sell a bottle of rosé, we actually lose 75 cents.”

Consumers are slowly starting to embrace New World examples of rosé and will hopefully explore options from around the globe. Australia, Chile, South Africa, Canada, New Zealand, and many other countries are now making world-class pink wine.

As a broad sweeping statement, New World rosés tend to offer a more fruit profile versus a mineral one. Due to more sun exposure and warmer conditions, they often have a higher alcohol content, making them full-bodied. These rosés can also be much more aromatic in comparison to their Old World counterparts.

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